Only 40 years Enrico Bartolini it already has assets well 5 Michelin stars, two for its namesake restaurant open inside the Mudec in Milan, one for Casual in Bergamo, the fourth for L'Andana in Castiglione della Pescaia and the fifth for Glam in Venice. Obviously he does not have the gift of ubiquity, but apparently he has been able to train excellent collaborators who carry out his work very well. Being the Saporario a city guide, we therefore tried the restaurant located on the third floor of the Museum of Cultures in Via Tortona, where, among other things, the chef also takes care of the management of the bistro on the ground floor.
The menu, in addition to including the individual dishes (3 for each course, except the desserts), also offers two tasting itineraries which can be combined with wine pairings. If instead you want to choose your own bottle, then just browse the complete wine list which contains interesting Italian and French labels with high markups. After some kindly offered appetizers - fake olive stuffed with Vermouth and tomato, fake carrot, modern aubergine, onion candy and a crunchy bundle stuffed with foie gras - we tasted a delicate mousse of potatoes with salmon eggs and capers where the flavor of the fish it perfectly counterbalanced the sweetness of the tubers, accompanied by home-made fragrant bread and, on request, by an excellent oil served directly at the table.
Following, excellent the tuna belly with broad beans, snow peas and spiked squid, where the fatness of the fish was supported by the pleasant acidity of the sauce on which it was laid, and excellent the Arlecchino risotto, a dish in which the rice creamed with chives and a little butter is poured directly onto the table on the plate which contains a series of vegetable-based emulsions, including pepper which, instead of covering all the other ingredients, enhances them magnificently; it is up to the customer to pour the rest of the risotto served in a copper saucepan hand and at will. A small nut made with white chocolate and filled with mandarin and raspberry heralds the dessert, a revisited (in our opinion unsuccessful) of the classic tiramisu perfumed with caramel, balsamic vinegar and capers, followed by a small pastry shop where the small one stood out bomb filled with custard.
Enrico Bartolini Restaurant - Mudec: environment
The only room is very bright thanks to the large windows overlooking the surrounding roofs. The decor is minimal and elegant, with well-spaced tables and a nice mise en place.
Service: Professional, courteous and friendly.
Enrico Bartolini - Mudec, Via Tortona, 56 - Milan. Telephone 02/84293701
Review taken from “Il Saporario - Milan"Of The Black Sheep Publisher.