The restaurant of Andrea Aprea, a talented chef from Vun, two Michelin stars since 2018, hosted by the Park Hyatt Milano, a stone's throw from the beautiful Galleria Vittorio Emanuele and the Duomo. Technique and innovation are the basis of his cuisine, which starts from tradition (especially from Campania, his homeland) to become refined and very original dishes, ready to amaze first the eyes and then the palate. This is the case of caprese, the chef's symbol dish, where a very thin sphere of white sugar encloses a buffalo mozzarella foam, laid on tomato and basil cream, with a piece of anchovy to soften the sweetness of the whole .
The risotto with lemon, rosemary, crispy capers and two mini red prawn tartare is also excellent, perfectly creamed and balanced in flavors. The different appetizers kindly offered and served at the beginning of the meal were also excellent, such as the "Italian aperitif" (spritz, chips and olives) transformed here into a crispy sphere filled with spritz, a potato bundle and a tart with cream of olives that looked like a delicious chocolate; Particularly also the sweet and sour mackerel with aubergine and mint cream, all served with good homemade bread and with breadsticks and peppercorns with pepper, accompanied by a bowl of excellent Sicilian oil poured directly from the bottle according to the standard.
The pre-dessert is spectacular: a basket of lemons from the Amalfi Coast on which liquid nitrogen is poured which releases the citrus essence that we will find in the sorbet and lemon cream.
In closing, an exquisite sweet-savory called Barley, where the cream made with the cereal is placed on a pastry and on a very thin layer of banana cream, and on top of which there are two small cylinders of caramelized banana and crispy capers and alongside a caper ice cream on sweet crumble.
The small patisserie also applauds, especially for the tartlet with violet cream, with an intense and persistent flavor. The menu includes two tasting menus, Partenopei routes at 145 euros and Traveling from North to South at 165 euros, while those who want to choose à la carte have two options that include 3 courses of choice at 115 euros and 4 courses at 145 euros.
The wine list is well structured and includes important names in Italian and international winemaking with mark-ups that obviously tend upwards, as well as the well-served wine list, with price increases that lead to choosing more a bottle than a glass. .
The restaurant, located on the ground floor of the hotel and with an independent entrance on Via Silvio Pellico, is elegant and minimalist, with well-spaced tables and a beautiful mise en place and beautiful red anthuriums to give that extra touch.
Service: Professional and courteous, ready for explanations and advice.
Vun, Via Silvio Pellico, 3 - Milan. Telephone 02/88211350
Review taken from The Black Sheep Publisher