Di Giancarlo Morelli is particularly striking in the look, nice and deep, enclosed in a square and a circle that are the shape of his glasses, as well as the stylized logo of his restaurant. To speak of his skill, the dishes are taken care of, presented in a somewhat cryptic way on the menu (only a few ingredients that make them up are indicated) but well explained by the dining room staff, especially by the affable maitre who will illustrate them with great detail.
The kitchen of Morelli it is creative and never banal, with original ideas and an impeccable technique that is never an end in itself. The menu consists of 4 tasting courses ranging from € 75 to € 140, which can be combined with wines or cocktails if desired; the à la carte choice, on the other hand, includes 3 or 4 dishes per course, with both meat and fish main courses and a beautiful cheese cart that contains more than 30 types, including local and French.
To support everything we think a wine list that to say well done is an understatement: a large and accurate selection of Champagne opens the list that then continues with our sparkling wines, white and red wines, mainly Italian, but also with some presence foreign, not only French; mark-ups tend upwards.
It starts immediately with the three appetizers kindly offered: a foie gras cream with cocoa powder served in the white eggshell, a mini cannolo stuffed with ricotta and pistachio grains to decorate and a rice and raw shrimp chips. All accompanied by two homemade loaves and arrived lukewarm at the table, on which it is a pleasure to spread the sweet Normandy butter and the excellent oil of a producer from Viterbo on it. Afterwards, the spaghetti (water), candied lemon and basil sorbet are simply perfect, a preparation that is in everyone's memory but which is elevated here to a gourmet dish. Very good also the char (freshwater fish) just seared and served with fermented radishes, cream of celeriac and turnip cubes with charcoal powder and fish eggs to give flavor to the whole. Delicious the sweet "rhubarb", a fragrant and slightly sweet shortcrust pastry topped with rhubarb sorbet and jelly, ricotta cream and fresh strawberries.
The only room is furnished in an elegant and minimalist way, except for the two opposite walls where beautiful painted flowers stand out. The dark tones are enlivened by the white tablecloths that go down to the ground and the tables, well spaced, have an accurate mise en place.
Service: Courteous, professional and friendly, with the chef in person who occasionally goes around the tables to make sure everything is going well.
Morelli, Via Aristotile Fioravanti, 4 - Milan. Telephone 02/80010918
Review taken from The Black Sheep Publisher