The protagonists of the place are two: Tano Simonato - the host - and theextra virgin olive oilor rather, the more than fifty oil labels that are expertly used in paper dishes, in cooking and cold. The style of the preparations clearly diverges from the Milanese tradition and its territory, even if it takes its cue from it: in the kitchen of Tano, in fact, a lot of technique and a lot of creativity shines through, but what seems to be missing in some dishes is the harmonious synthesis between these two elements.
We found it already from the small appetizer with which we were welcomed, a pyramid of semolina puff pastry filled with liquid foie gras on mango cream: all too sweet, it would have been excellent to close the meal, rather than to stimulate the appetite. Even the excellent caramelized quail eggs on tuna mousse with raw tuna carpaccio marinated in lemon and mint were technically perfect but, eating them separately, as recommended by the chef, they are not harmonious. Balanced and pleasantly aromatic the Carnaroli risotto cooked in vegetable broth and milk, with orange, chilli pepper and then finished at the table with a grated chocolate directly on the plate; shame about cooking really to the limit.
The cod with milk and extra virgin olive oil in fennel broth, licorice, champignon mushrooms, caramelized orange and almonds is not very attractive, where the many ingredients did not communicate with each other. Applause for the excellent oils brought to the table and accompanied by small homemade sandwiches and breadsticks, while disappointing turned out to be the coffee, under extracted and with a weak body, served together with a very pleasant small pastry. The wine list is extensive, with labels from most of the peninsula and beyond the Alps and top-up slightly above average.
Tano pass me the oil: environment
The restaurant is made up of several rooms, one of which is for smokers only, which is accessed via a sliding door located in the first room. The decor is a bit old-fashioned, with tables covered with long white tablecloths and the right mise en place, shame about the lights that are too low that still create a relaxing and very familiar atmosphere.
Servicess: Courteous, precise and with the right times. The patron, Tano, is often present in the room with his charisma to serve, present and provide instructions on the tasting of his dishes to guests.
Tano pass me the oil, Via Eugenio Villoresi, 16 Navigli - Milan. Telephone 02/8394139.
Review taken from “Il Saporario - Milan"Of The Black Sheep Publisher.